Presidential House Visit: Where in the World is Richard Milhous Nixon?

For those of you who wondered what Richard Nixon
would look like in the Carmen Sandiego hat

Forget Carmen Sandiego- Richard Milhous Nixon has given me more trouble than a globetrotting master thief.

Since I lack the funds to get a flight to California, his birthplace in Yorba Linda, California wasn't an option, so I decided to get creative. I looked up the various places where he lived and discovered he had a house in Saddle River, New Jersey, less than two hours away. I read some rumblings about its imminent demolition, but decided it was close enough to give it a shot.

Site of the Nixon Saddle River residence

I got hopeful as I entered the neighborhood of mansions, but as I drove up to the address, I realized with dismay the reports were indeed true. There was no trace of the house, only a plot of trees between mansions with some abandoned building materials. I was surprised not only by how eerie it was, but how sad it made me. I wouldn't characterize myself as Nixon's biggest fan, but it seemed wrong that no one made a greater effort to save the house.

I was also sad because the lack of house meant I still had a Nixon sized hole in my checklist. Luckily, I had found another New Jersey Nixon residence only fifteen minutes away in Park Ridge. Unfortunately, I never even got to pull up to that house, since it was in a gated community. It turns out it's actually really difficult to sweet-talk your way into a private neighborhood for the obscenely wealthy. 

I was getting discouraged at this point, but faint heart never won fair lady-- or in this case, dead politician's former residence. After a bit more snooping around the internet I found two addresses of houses the Nixons lived in while they were in Washington, both still privately owned.

The house the Nixons resided in during the 1950s

Residence of the Nixon family in the 1960s

Driving up to the first house in Washington, DC, I said a silent prayer it hadn't been destroyed in a freak lightning storm. Happily, it was not only still standing, it looked to be in excellent shape. The next house was also well cared for and quite beautiful. All of the houses were tucked away in quiet neighborhoods where the Nixons would be afforded some measure of privacy. 

Driving away, I realized with no small amount of glee that I had not been defeated by Richard Nixon.  

Presidential House Visit: George H. W. Bush Birthplace

George H. W. Bush Birthplace
Milton, Massachusetts

One of the great joys of this project has been the amount of care that goes into the upkeep of the houses. Maintaining a historic home is a labor of love that needs both funding and the passion of people who care. The fact that so many sites still exist today, even for the most obscure presidents is a testament to the people who keep them going.

Plaque on a rock in front of the house

The George H. W. Bush Birthplace was, unfortunately, an example of what can happen when that funding and passion doesn't come through. The house still stands just south of Boston in Milton, Massachusetts just several miles from the Adams National Historic Site in Quincy. The house is privately owned, but a marker stands on the property explaining the historic nature of the house, which is blocked by trees and bushes, so I had to go up the driveway to get a better look at it.

I almost wished I hadn't, because it upset me. I couldn't describe it as dilapidated, but it certainly wasn't in good shape. I wasn't expecting this, mostly because the other houses in the area look to be about the same age and are in excellent condition. The house itself was a large wooden Victorian with a welcoming front porch, and if taken care of, would be quite beautiful. I hope that someday soon the house will find a champion and be preserved as befits the birthplace of a president.

Presidential House Visit: The Pierce Manse

The Pierce Manse
Concord, New Hampshire

If I had to guess which president had a significant following other than the Rushmore set, Franklin Pierce would have been one of the last men to come to mind. Pierce has the unfortunate distinction of being one of the presidents who were in office shortly before Lincoln, whose towering greatness tends to diminish the accomplishments of his predecessors.

But in Concord, New Hampshire, Pierce holds a place of prominence that is unusual among the houses I have visited so far. Concerned citizens of Concord formed the Pierce Brigade in the 1970’s to save the Pierce Manse, the only home Franklin Pierce ever owned, from demolition during an urban renewal project. In order to accomplish this feat they had to physically move the house to a different location from where it originally stood. Those same people are still heavily involved in the running of the house today, and they formed the Pierce Brigade, which keeps the house in running order.

I was fortunate enough to be able to attend a lecture at the Pierce Manse given by Pierce biographer Peter A. Wallner. The focus of his talk was on three of the most significant friends of Pierce's life: Daniel Webster, Jefferson Davis, and Nathaniel Hawthorne. The talk was extremely informative as well as interesting; I had always associated Pierce with the depression and alcoholism that historians claim dominated his later life. Hearing about these relationships he had forged and kept for so long made him less a tragic historical figure and more of a man whose life had ups and downs just like everyone else's. That he managed to continue to be a true friend through very difficult times is a testament to his character, and speaks to the best part of a man who doesn't get much respect. 

The Midwest Tour

I've gotten some comments from people who wanted to know exactly where I've been going on these trips. So I've posted a video that shows the route I took on my Midwest Tour to see presidential homes (with a quick pit stop at the Mark Twain House!) in late May.

Please feel free to leave comments and let me know what you think!

You can also view a higher quality version on youtube here.

Presidential House Visit: Chester A. Arthur Birthplace

Chester A. Arthur Birthplace
Fairfield, Vermont

With all the controversy surrounding President Obama's birth certificate, most people forgot that this is not the first time this has happened. In the late 19th century, there were many people utterly convinced that Chester A. Arthur was born, not in Fairfield, Vermont, but fifteen miles north in Canada. 

Stone marker commemorating site of the original home
(or is it?)

But if you take the family Bible at its word, Arthur was born on American soil. Regardless of the exact spot, we can be fairly sure it looked something like the replica that stands in Fairfield today, which was modest even for its day. His father was an itinerant preacher, and the family moved around quite a bit when Arthur was a child. 

Without the controversy of his mysterious origins, Chester A. Arthur is one of those presidents most people remember as the guys in the middle with funny facial hair. In reality, Arthur was a political hack for much of his career, and was chosen to be Garfield's running mate so he would deliver New York to the Republican cause. Arthur's work in the New York political machine is mentioned in the museum inside the Arthur birthplace, although our guide pointed out, it is often covered by a door, which was something we all got a good laugh out of.

Panel about Arthur's political career,
cleverly hidden behind a door

After Garfield's assassination, Arthur was a changed man. He passed the Pendleton Civil Service Act, which fought against the very corruption he once practiced himself. He did not want to be president and he did not run for re-election, but he made the best of a difficult situation, and actually accomplished something of note.

Also, I heard he was from Canada. Eh.

View from the home

Presidential House Visit: Calvin Coolidge Birthplace

Calvin Coolidge has been described as our quietest president. Nicknamed "Silent Cal," Coolidge left behind him a wake of humorous anecdotes describing his total unwillingness to string together a few sentences. His reserve has made him into something of a comic historical figure.

Historic Plymouth, Vermont

Seeing the town where Coolidge was born and raised, it's not difficult to figure out where that reserve came from. In a small farming community like Plymouth, Vermont, words are cheap. Work was valued above small talk, and Calvin Coolidge learned from the best. His father, Colonel John Coolidge, was a farmer, post master, constable, general store owner, and notary, as well as a skilled woodworker, and just as silent as his son. After the deaths of young Calvin's mother and little sister, father and son became very close, and the bond lasted throughout both of their lives.

Calvin Coolidge Birthplace

John Calvin Coolidge was born on July 4, 1872 in the small house behind the general store where his father worked. The family later moved across the street into a larger house where Calvin would regularly return for the rest of his life.

Room where Coolidge was born

Hallway leading to the General Store from the house

The Coolidge Homestead

Carriage made by Coolidge's father, Colonel John Coolidge

Quilt and small chest of drawers made by Calvin Coolidge
as a boy

Most notably, it was in the Coolidge homestead that John Coolidge administered the Oath of Office to his son after the sudden death of President Harding. The Coolidges stayed in Plymouth during the summer of 1924 after their son Calvin Jr. died at the tender age of sixteen when a blister on his foot became infected. Coolidge and his wife Grace were devastated, so they went to Plymouth for a much needed vacation. Then President Coolidge did the same farm tasks he did as a boy, pitching hay and helping his father with the farm.

I could see why the President would want to return home after such a terrible tragedy. Plymouth can best be summed up by the word wholesome. The air is fresh, the trees are green, and the mountains seem to reach up out of the earth to fold you in their embrace. There is a neat orderliness to the town that I imagine was of great comfort to Coolidge and his grieving family. 

Room where Colonel Coolidge administered the Oath of
Office to his son

Church where the Coolidges worshipped

Like its most famous son, Plymouth is quiet, but the silent landscape has an eloquence that can heal. I confess I found it difficult to leave; I felt a little healthier, a little happier, and little more clear headed just for breathing in the mountain air. I imagine Coolidge felt the same, although he may not have said it aloud.

The view from Plymouth

Presidential House Visit: Spiegel Grove

Spiegel Grove, Home of Rutherford B. Hayes
Fremont, Ohio

Part of the joy of this journey has been discovering the unlikely awesomeness of obscure presidents. The Rutherford B. Hayes Home is an excellent example. My knowledge of Hayes was limited and narrow, so I didn't have many expectations when I arrived at his house not too far outside Toledo. From the outside the house looks like a decent sized brick home with a side front porch.


Walking inside the house was a revelation. For one thing, it's huge; the ceilings are high, the rooms are large, and the staircase was breathtaking in both size and beauty. The house was full of beautiful woodworking  done by local craftsmen using trees felled on the property. 

Eagle doorknocker

Hayes was very involved in the building of his house, and he specifically asked for a wide front porch, because he believed a narrow porch was as useless as no porch at all (a man after my own heart). The home was primarily a space for his family, and he wanted it to be functional as well as beautiful.

Hayes certainly accomplished his mission, because his house was the most beautiful one on the tour so far. Spacious and light, grand without being remote, Spiegel Grove was a place you could imagine both raising a family and entertaining important guests. 

Wide front porch of Spiegel Grove

Perhaps most impressively, the house is still used by locals today. In the front yard, there was a group of young men playing croquet just as the Hayes's would have done, although they probably wouldn't have worn t-shirts and shorts. In the backyard, people were camped out to watch an old-fashioned baseball game on a pleasant weekend afternoon. 

The presence of regular folks enjoying their afternoon seemed to create a connection between past and present. Because you can't touch anything or stray off the carpets in historical homes, there can be a sense of disconnect between a visitor and the past generations who used the house. It speaks to Hayes's character that his home feels welcoming, personal, and functional even all these years later. I think the gentlemen playing baseball would agree. 

 

Old fashioned baseball game on the grounds

Gravesite of Rutherford B. Hayes

Presidential House Visit: Lindenwald

Lindenwald, Home of Martin Van Buren
Kinderhook, New York

Martin Van Buren was a president overshadowed by the immense personality of his mentor and predecessor. Martin Van Buren was handpicked by Jackson to be his successor, so I often thought of him as being something of a lackey. 

Back of Lindenwald showing a later addition

Seeing Van Buren's house in Kinderhook, I had to rethink that assessment. The house is so unique, such a strange amalgamation of influences, that the man who lived there could not be as simple as I had assumed. The architecture is a mixture of the Federal, Victorian, and Italianate styles that doesn't quite add up to a cohesive whole.

Grand Hall

It's also full of awesome gadgets. The table picture above has over twenty leaves that can be taken out, and the rest of the table folds together like an accordion until it is the size of a small side table. The Grand Hall also houses a early form of the sofa bed you can make out on the far left end.

Best Bedroom where Henry Clay once slept

Original narrative wallpaper

The tour also took us down into the lower level of the house to show us where the servants lived and worked. It was a surprisingly large, clean space; it might not have been grand, but it seemed comfortable. The basement also housed the early form of running water built into the house.

Servants quarters dining room

Running water system

Bust of Van Buren in the library

View of stairs leading to the tower

All in all, I was surprised by how interesting and unexpected Lindenwald was. Although I'm still not terribly fond of Van Buren, I felt I finally understood him apart from his relationship with Jackson, although he was not wholly absent from the house. The walking stick he gave to Van Buren was made of hickory and had his name engraved on the silver plates placed over the knots in the wood. Needless to say, Jackson was not famous for his modesty. 

Van Buren died in his bedroom at Lindenwald in 1862. He spent his last weeks asking about the progress of the war, and his family didn't have the heart to tell him the truth of how poorly the war was going. Van Buren died with the hope that someday the country he loved and fought to hold together would one day be reunited again. 

Van Buren's bedroom

Guide showing the walking stick given to
Van Buren from Andrew Jackson

Presidential House Visit: Springfield Redux

Abraham Lincoln Home
Springfield, IL

I was a little nervous to see the Abraham Lincoln Home in Springfield again. What if it was totally different from how I remembered it? What if it was a big disappointment?

I shouldn't have worried. It was completely different from how I remembered, but it was also a much richer experience. Having seen the Abraham Lincoln Boyhood Home so recently, I had a different perspective and a deeper understanding of what this house meant for Abraham Lincoln.

The formal parlor

For one thing, the size must have been a welcome relief. In the cabin where he grew up, the ceilings were too low for his 6'4" frame, and he would have had to crouch to fit. In his home in Springfield, the ceilings are are all twelve feet high. Walking through the house, I could imagine him finally being able to be comfortable in his own home. He had enough room at last.

Abraham Lincoln's Original Writing Desk

Wardrobe possibly made by Lincoln's father

Lincoln's Bed

Another surprise for me on the tour was the focus on Mary Lincoln, as they refer to her at the site. History has been harsh on Mrs. Lincoln, but the home she made for her family is stylish and comfortable, but not ostentatious. Also, I was surprised to learn that Mary did all the cooking for the family herself in the well-equipped kitchen. I always thought of her as a spoiled, difficult woman, but the evidence at Springfield contradicted that assessment.

Mrs. Lincoln's Bed

Kitchen where Mrs. Lincoln did her cooking

The historical neighborhood

While I was in Springfield, I also stopped by Abraham Lincoln's tomb. I was pleasantly surprised to find it much as I remembered it, although now you can no longer go up to the balcony section.

Lincoln's Tomb

But what I was most excited to see at Oak Ridge Cemetery was the John R. Tanner mausoleum. It is still there, in all its beehive glory, although things were not exactly as I remembered it. The grave we thought belonged to John R. tanner's second wife was actually that of his daughter-in-law (the mistake was easy to make considering the words "Wife of John R. Tanner" are emblazoned on the tombstone). His actual second wife was only 11 years younger than him, which is not nearly as large an age difference as my dad had thought. 

John R. Tanner Mausoleum

Daughter-in-law of John R. Tanner (not trophy wife)

Second wife of John R. Tanner, Edith English Tanner

I'm glad I came back to Springfield. I felt like I came away knowing more about Lincoln and the life he chose for himself.